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The mid-sized town of Bad Kreuznach, in the Rheinland-Pflaz region of Germany, will always have a special place in my heart.
With a history which dates back to the Stone Age, with evidence of the Celts, Germanic Tribes, and Roman artifacts, it is located about an hour south from Kaiserslautern and an hour west of Frankfurt along the Nahe River. Bad Kreuznach is a renowned health resort especially for respiratory ailments and a region of marvelous wines. Its “Brückenhäuse" or 15th century “Bridge Houses” remain iconic.
For me, Bad Kreuznach, or “BK” as it was known to the U.S. military assigned there, the town became my “Heimat” or (German) hometown. It is where I met my wife; mother of my children and it is here that I became a member of her family whose old-European values and standards are aligned with mine.
A painting of the Brückenhäuse (“Bridge Houses”) and the St. Pauli Church in the background. The painting is by Peter Trautmann, a well-known local artist who is very much involved in art festivals and community endeavors.
The three timber houses are constructed over the Nahe River and date back to the 15th century. One of the houses still bears an artillery round, a relic when the Swedish military invaded and captured the community during the Thirty Years War (1618-1648). About a third of the community perished from a conflict whereby the Roman Catholic emperor attempted to impose absolutism throughout its domain.
Engineers determined that removing the round would cause the top to crumble and thus, it remains to this day.
The greatest Church is within you, and it is made of love, courage and conscience.
Abhijit Naskar; Neuroscientist, author, poet
This sculpture can be found along the walking/ jogging trail which winds through the Island of Roses or “Roseninsel.” The entire spacious landscaped grounds, with park benches and a playground, are located up from the banks of the Nahe River in the Kurpark. A short distance from this 19th century object is a fountain with seating room encircling its flowing waters. The statue is on a concrete base which raises it above eye level.
It was nearly three decades ago that I literally ran into it on a day of jogging. I was prepping for an upcoming Army Physical Training test. The over 10 kilometer or more than six mile course I had laid out included a loop around the “Salieninthal,” those tall wooden edifices erected with special wood and designed for respiratory ailments.
My objective at the time was getting to know the running route to Bad Munster-am-Stein; a small, quaint village near Bad Kreuznach. Assigned as a military service member, I had many responsibilities of which this “PT Test” was one of them. The course bypassed the Statue. I had to stop as I was mesmerized then by its details.
Despite many visits to Bad Kreuznach, it was not until recently, during a long walk with my son, that it reappeared.
For the most part, statues that I have seen are passive. Expertly carved humans and animals are found throughout the world. Human are generally with looks which stare out to the far distance while in a stagnant poise. This one is different. It projects Fear, Anger, Need and Desperation.
The statue “Durst” or “Thirst, created by Bad Keuznach native Ludwig Cauer, stands as a testimonial of the life-sustaining need for water to survive. Created in 1892 for the British military (hence their 19th century gear), it was deemed “not heroic enough” by British authorities. Yet, for anyone who has endured the Middle East, desert locations in Africa or Third World countries, the value of drinkable water is captured.
Little was I to imagine during those earlier years of military service that this Statue would somewhat reveal my future environment and experiences.
I am grateful to have rediscovered “Durst” which captures the fine line between Life and Death at a moment of human deprivation.
All is born of water; all is sustained by water.
Johann Wolfgang von Goethe: scientist, statesman, playwrite, novelist.
British poet W.H. Auden is quoted as reminding us that “Water is the soul of the Earth.” I recall this saying whenever I see lawn sprinklers spewing water during or after rainfall or other wasteful practices of our planet’s most valuable resource.
Next time -
A place for healing while drinking beer, eating fantastic German food and meeting up with “Old Magic.”
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